ZEA | Joaquin Elizondo on finding familiarity in contemporary latin american flavors
published in enya Fashion Queen issue #194, find the original interview in Chinese here
As rays of sunshine cast a shadow of colors on the sign saying ZEA, the pure image of corn captures the essence of Latin American cuisine - it is a symbol of thankfulness for director and chef de cuisine, Joaquin Elizondo. Integrating humility into innovation, he is searching for a universal memory of flavors in a land of different cultures.
Best of Both Worlds
Born in Argentina, Elizondo acquired strong culinary experience working as the sous chef of MONO, a one-Michelin star restaurant in Hong Kong. The opportunity to come to Taiwan presented itself because of his wife and biggest supporter, Di. Neighbors, the two decided to return to Di’s hometown and embark on a journey of entrepreneurship together. “The main difference is in the language and customs, but the core values are pretty similar, which was surprising to me,” says Elizondo. Despite having traveled 1832 kilometers from Argentina to Taiwan, Elizondo was welcomed by a familiarity that couldn’t be described with words, which also became a source of inspiration for his culinary creations. For instance, while cassava is the main ingredient for making edible flowers and tapioca in Taiwan, it is also the essence of Latin American food. Besides ingredients, another similarity lies in the emphasis on food. “Food is equivalent to gatherings with friends and family. To us, it is a part of life, a chance to create beautiful memories on the dining table.” The smiles on the faces of the guests as they enjoyed the food brought peace to Elizondo’s mind. Gradually letting go of his worries and concerns, he began to cook freely with the authentic tastes of Latin America and explored the possibilities hidden within the spicy, sour, sweet and salty flavors.
Tastes of Home
To overcome the difference in local Taiwanese ingredients is the biggest challenge Elizondo currently faces. “Taiwan offers a wide selection of agricultural products and it changes very fast, which is why the menu is adjusted on a daily basis.” In spite of that, the changing seasonality also opens up endless potentials when it comes to creating a dish. While exploring Taiwanese flavors, Elizondo discovered the signature Taiwanese sausage with sticky rice is actually very similar to the Argentinian street food, choripan. “Choripan also uses pork sausage, but instead of rice, we wrap it in a bun. From the grilled meat, the juicy texture, to the sauce drizzled on top, it is so unbelievably familiar, it felt like I was home.” With this in mind, Di points out that Elizondo didn’t experience such a feeling when they lived in Hong Kong. For them, the unexplainable connection shared between their hometown and Taiwan was a delightful surprise. “When ZEA had just opened, we served a traditional Latin American snack that comes with deep-fried pumpkin, sweet potato bread and syrup, but it somehow reminded guests of the fried sweet potato balls from the night markets here.” As time went on, such fun dining experiences and interactions became the bridge between ZEA and its customers.
Beauty in Generous Hospitality
From the warm yellow tones of the wooden interior to the elegant and grand atmosphere, the dining space perfectly captures Elizondo’s ideal dining scene. Of all the corners, his favorite is the herb garden. Not only the go-to place for a short break during work, it is also where the herbs and spices found in the dishes served came from. Smiling, he says his dream is to own farmland in Taipei and plant tomatoes, potato and chili so that his restaurant can use the freshest ingredients. When asked about his personality, he describes it as fun, brave and positive. “It does take courage and determination to open a restaurant. It is something Di and I have never given up on and we are lucky to have met a lot of people who were willing to help us.” As of now, Latin American Fine Dining is considerably rare in Asia and Taiwan. With one step ahead, Elizondo aspires to show the public the elegant aesthetics through generous hospitality and exceptional quality. The familiar faces constantly revisiting ZEA become his motivation to strive forward. As Elizondo and Di look at each other and share a smile, he concludes, “Let’s see where we are in the future.”