EMBERS | Wes Guo on food philosophy, finding origins and the cycle of nature
published in enya Fashion Queen issue #194, find the original interview in Chinese here
Located at latitude 23.5 degrees north and surrounded by rich, diverse natural resources, the changing landscapes perfectly reflect the seasonality of the Crape Myrtle. From sprouting, flowering, defoliating to withering, the process is emblematic of Chef Wes Guo’s reason to open EMBERS. “I want the dining experience at EMBERS to be delicate, beautiful and in-depth and I hope that in ten years my restaurant will become a part of Taiwanese cuisine, one that holds its own traditions.”
When Food becomes Philosophy
Being awarded the Michelin Green Star in 2022 is sufficient to showcase EMBERS’s sustainable mission to coexist with nature. If we rewind time, perhaps Guo never expected to build such a profound connection with the wilderness. Having started his culinary journey from Shilin Night Market and Katsu Katsu Fried Food, he gained popularity by making simple but heartfelt Japanese food. However, the year he turned 30 became a pivoting point in his life. “When I look back at my past experiences, I realize I actually had no goal. Since I started working at a young age, my goal became equivalent to making money. Lost, I tried other industries as well, but culinary is what I really wanted to do. Perhaps it is not my expertise, but it is something that I am good at.” Good Food Lab became Guo’s chance to learn, not just about cooking but also about himself. From an agricultural perspective, he set his focus on local ingredients and even visited indigenous farms to experience the distinctive cultures. Laughing, he saw the experience as a blessing, a chance to allow the ingredients to teach him a lesson. Through constant reflection and accumulation, Guo was able to test out different possibilities. “Just like fire, the burning process is about digesting. To me, it became a value that I strongly believe in.” Cleverly explaining the meaning behind the name of the restaurant, he showcases a determination that echoes with the aftermath of a wildfire and its peaceful, precious beauty.
Finding the Origin
A gem of the menu is undoubtedly one of the appetizers that mocks betel nut. Made of piper sarmentosum and ambarella, the dish is a symbol of warm welcome that tells the story of local customs with the familiar Taiwanese flavors. With the culinary concept of EMBERS in mind, Guo points out, “What we want to show is that one plus one plus one equals one. In order to create a dish, you need three elements—flavor, freshness, texture—and one singular focus.” Breaking the limitations of traditional western cuisines, he designed a 12-course menu that allows his guests to understand the purity and diversity of the ingredients. For example, the persimmon dessert is crafted with olive oil, ice cream and mullet roe. While the fruit is grilled to bring out its cheesy flavor, the mousse comes with a fully ripened seed that is extremely chewy. Soft without losing its crispiness, the dessert fulfills everyone’s imagination and Guo’s expectation for the fruit. Despite having created dish after dish that are fun and interesting, he actually does not like the word “innovate.” “In the process of creating each dish, we find new potential for the ingredients. These new knowledge comes from the past, from traces of old memories. It is like a cycle of nature, something that is visible to the human eye.” Ending the circle with a warm bowl of soup, the last dish concludes the set menu on a satisfying, heartwarming note.
With Culture and Heritage
From the ornaments, tables and chairs, to the counter, everything at EMBERS is simple but filled with details. It is almost as if the warm ambiance of the place pulsates with the energy of nature. While Guo finds every corner of the restaurant to his liking, he is particularly fond of the entrance, where three rocks and seasonal vegetation are located. To him, the corner is an existence of rituals. “It is a declaration. The place where three stones are stacked is where the kitchen is located, an important living guideline to all aboriginal people.” Drawing inspiration from the ancestral culture’s reverence towards nature, the interior showcases the peace found in natural connections. Always eager to learn, Guo laughs and says he almost never reads books about culinary. Instead, he is more interested in other fields of study such as abstract theory, philosophy, design and academic papers. The knowledge he accumulated further expands the infinite aspects of his creative process. “Through cooking, I get the chance to constantly learn about new things, which is where my passion for this industry and my motivation come from.” In terms of future plans, Guo only has one wish—to live life properly. Currently writing a book on herbs with his friend, he wants to bring herbs closer to people’s lives and to understand local cultures, diverse ethnic groups and geographical features through the study of plants. “What we hope for is that in the future, Taiwanese people will be able to show who they are with absolute confidence to the world,” Guo explains his mission as his eyes gleam with dedication, making us look forward to the day when his vision becomes reality.