TORISHOU | Tank Lee on yakitori in taiwan, precision and training mentality
published in enya Fashion Queen issue #193, find the original interview in Chinese here
As we enter the alleys of Jinan Road residential, a dark wooden door, covered in grids reminiscent of chicken houses, comes into view. Focusing on the essence of the connection between the charcoal fire and the meat, each turn of the chicken relies on the experience accumulated over time. “I hope that Taiwan’s high-quality chicken breed can be seen internationally and to achieve that, the only way is to open a specialty restaurant,” says Tank Lee, head chef of TORISHOU. Combining Western mindset into Japanese culinary methods, he insists on dismantling the whole chicken himself every day. With a burning dedication, he sets his eyes on the future and aspires to reach a new milestone for the Taiwanese yakitori industry.
The First Time
From being the head chef of Tokyo Tamachi Torishin to working at Somenoi, Linyuchang, Daikanyama Resutoran and more, Chef Lee has acquired extensive experience in yakitori. His first time trying the cuisine in Japan was an experience that inspired him to dive into the world of yakitori. “Dismantling is done differently in Taiwan and Japan. I was fascinated by the difference in flavor and texture when the dismantling and skewing methods were changed.” In comparison with other types of meat, chickens are known to be harder to cook-thorough, which makes the precision in temperature a crucial element. Gradually figuring out the right way through endless trials and error, Lee also encountered uncontrollable variables, such as air contact, charcoal size, controlling ventilation and more. In spite of the unpredictability, he enjoys the daily challenges and continues to work hard in the kitchen with absolute focus - a perfect reflection of his personality: bashful, earnest and hardworking.
Creating Exclusive Flavors
In order to bring out the soft but chewy texture of the meat, Chef Lee specifically chose the Goldneck Chicken originated from Dawu Mountain in Pingtung, Taiwan as the central ingredient of the menu. In partnership with local Taiwanese breeder Roksn, they found the perfect balance that showcased the customized flavor and texture. The six-hour long dismantling process serves as a meditation exercise before he starts working for the day. Not only does the procedure produce over 30 different delicate and complete parts, but it also turns passivity into action. By breaking the limitation of ingredients, Lee has discovered the endless possibilities of yakitori omakase. Of all the dishes served, the Chicken Liver Pâté with SAKImoto Toast is definitely a must-have, an exclusive collaboration with SAKImoto Bakery. From the recipe, texture of the pâté, to the thickness of the toast, every component of the signature dish is a product that took over a year to perfect. Sharing the concept behind his menu, Lee also reveals that many of it was inspired by street food. For example, the Chicken Liver Pâté with SAKImoto Toast actually came from the classic Cantonese snack, pineapple bun with butter, while the clear chicken broth was modeled after Tainan’s famous beef soup. Laughing, he says it is very reasonable and nice to have a bowl of hot soup amid this chilling season.
Broadening Horizons
At the age of 15, a youthful age of ignorance, Lee had already set his life goal. His time spent studying culinary arts in Japan taught him the spirit of professionalism lies within absolute focus. “The whole atmosphere was a testament to that. Everyone was enjoying their work, however, they were able to put on a whole other professional performance as soon as the guests came in, which was very impressive.” To Lee, having passion is a basic, what’s more important is to have an enlightened heart. “If you are not ready to give everything you’ve got, then perhaps opening a specialty restaurant is not the best choice. I never really see it as merely a job.” Furthermore, Lee finds the ability to stay open-minded to criticism as the key to becoming a good chef. Only by improving our strengths and understanding our weaknesses can we continue to strive for greatness. “The interesting thing about culinary arts is that you get to cook and train your mentality at the same time.” A rather taciturn person, Chef Lee sets his focus on the meat and the grill in front of him, perfectly showcasing his dedication and determination.