logy | Ryogo Tahara on deconstructing flavors and olfactory philosophy
published in enya Fashion Queen issue #182, find the original interview in Chinese here
Located amidst the streets of Taipei East District, logy draws inspiration from the suffix of “meteorology” and “geology,” with a similar pronunciation to the Japanese word “roji,” meaning alleys and streets. The dimly-lit concrete interior adds to the intriguing ambiance as the four letters encapsulate Asia’s profound dynamism. Incorporating seasonal local ingredients with Asian features while reimagining French and Italian cuisines with innovative techniques, logy surprises gourmets from all around the world with the play on taste and the olfactory. Let us follow the steps of head chef Ryogo Tahara, who had just received his second Michelin star, and understand his unique olfactory philosophy.
Clash of Cultures
Growing up surrounded by nature in Hokkaido’s Shakotan Peninsula, Tahara was familiar with the fresh flavors of seafood like sea urchin and abalone and acquired a high sensitivity towards the natural flavors of changing seasons. During his four-year stay in Italy, he set off on a decade’s journey working at various Michelin-starred restaurants, including La Ciau del Tornavento (one-star) and Torre del Saracino (two-star). In 2015, he returned to Japan and joined two-Michelin-starred restaurant Florilège by working under head chef Hiroyasu Kawate. Recalling when he first arrived in Taiwan three years ago, Tahara said he immediately felt the difference between Japanese and Taiwanese culinary cultures. From street food to expensive fine dining, he also began to contemplate where logy should belong. Tahara was able to condense his impressions of Taiwan - the clashing of colors from signs on the street, the exuberant vitality of the people - into one single dish, the egg custard in beef consommé with celery sorbet, a signature dish of logy that has been on the menu since its opening. The dish serves as a perfect example of how Tahara is able to sublimate his careful perception into the exceptional flavors that bloom like fireworks in each customer’s mouth.
Rearranging Flavors
Never limited by how a dish should be presented, Tahara strives for freedom. Surprised by the distinctive flavor of Taiwanese sesame oil, he realizes the most challenging but also interesting process is finding the right balance among different ingredients without taking away their own flavors. In order to understand the characteristics of the local ingredients, Tahara spent over two months traveling around Taiwan. Among his discoveries, he found Taitung’s “Mountain Angelica” to be one of the most unique flavors he encountered. Different from the liberating flavors of the ocean in his hometown, the distinctively rich herbal scent opened up a brand new realm of sensory. By deconstructing and rearranging the flavors, Tahara was able to infuse this new discovery into his signature egg custard. To him, the olfactory is the key to designing a dish. For instance, bonito and mirin often remind us of Japan, rice wine, dried radish and Shaoxing wine represent Taiwan, while tomato and spices immediately bring Italy to mind. Through the layering of different scents, Tahara is trying to remind each of his customers of a personal moment by calling to a universal culinary memory that speaks to all Asian people. As we are enjoying the food, not only are we trying out an innovative dish, but we are also witnessing a brand new cultural image personally delivered by the one and only Chef Tahara.
Continues Striving
Looking back at his career, Tahara teases himself and says he probably won’t live for very long because he believes time is very limited. “Never waste time” is the one truth that he holds on to all these years. On each New Year’s Eve, he always lists out thirty different goals for the next year. If he doesn’t finish them, he adds the unfinished ones to the following year but strictly limits himself to a five-year due date. Following a similar high standard, he intentionally stays hungry everyday in order to keep his taste buds and senses sharp to better understand customers’ anticipation for the food to arrive. Speaking of logy’s future, Tahara plans on upgrading the kitchen and its equipment, while striving towards becoming a more well-rounded business. Not only staying true to himself, he also continues to ask the question: am I doing enough for a two-Michelin-starred restaurant? With exceptional humility and absolute determination, Chef Tahara continues to strive for greatness and will never stop before he reaches total satisfaction and perfection.