L’Atelier par Yao | Yao on solo travel, new dining concepts and communication
published in enya Fashion Queen issue #197, find the original interview in Chinese here
As we step into L’Atelier par Yao, located in the tranquil residential area of Taichung, the warm wooden tables and chairs come into view. As if welcoming its guests home, the harmonious figures in the kitchen are fully displayed through the open space. “With the spirit of French cuisine in mind, my dishes are filled with traditional elements combined with my own life story and travel experiences,” says Chef Yao. At the age of 27, he is already showing the world his extraordinary ideals and aspirations through each and every refined dish.
Rich Culinary Perspectives
Yao’s culinary journey started when he was a kid. Growing up loving cooking, he received professional training at National Kaohsiung University of Hospitality and Tourism, where he initially focused on Chinese cuisine. Later on, he traveled to France for an exchange program and worked at several Michelin restaurants throughout Europe, which sparked his uttermost passion for the French cuisine. With a light backpack and his trusted knives, Yao embarked on a solo journey to expand his perspectives – from Lyon, Southern France, Italy, Greece, Sweden, London, and eventually back to Paris. “You get to think a lot when you are traveling alone. Being in solidarity allows for unique experiences and life planning.” However, due to the pandemic, his original plan to work in France was postponed, which indirectly accelerated the birth of his own first restaurant, L’Atelier par Yao. Meaning “workshop” in French, the name echoes perfectly with the image of an ideal restaurant Yao had in mind. “Opening a restaurant is never just about the chef. It involves various aspects, such as professional experience, choice of tableware, the interior and more. The restaurant is a platform and I’m just a curator. We need everyone to work together to create the perfect dining experience.”
Exploring Potentials
At first, L’Atelier par Yao gained popularity by offering Meal Kits, which laid the foundation for its business during the pandemic. Using only two-legged animals as the main ingredient, the restaurant was able to stand out from its competitors. For this, Yao points out that he loves poultry, especially since French poultry requires more skill and attentiveness to handle. Smiling, he says it was also giving himself a challenge to create an array of unique flavors for his customers. Regarding the spring menu, Yao reveals that he incorporated a lot of colorful spring and summer elements. The main dish used chicken from Fengshan, with a sauce extracted from vegetables – asparagus, white asparagus and turnip – to bring out the refreshing taste. Another highlight of the menu is the creative appetizer inspired by tomatoes. “I used tomatoes of various colors and forms – fresh, pickled and ones made into tomato water – along with Japanese picked sakura to capture the feeling of spring.” Exploring the endless possibilities of ingredients is the source of his passion for cooking. For every customer who enters L’Atelier par Yao, Yao aspires to build a two-way communication. “I hope that they can share with me what they have discovered. Like last season, we asked them to try the dish before introducing what was in it. By asking them questions, I think it creates a different way of how things are done.” By shifting the power dynamic at the dining table, he aims to inspire customers’ curiosity and desire to explore, providing a whole new experience for the taste buds.
Striving for Diligence
Flavors can evoke one’s old memories as there are certain connections hidden between the sour, sweet, bitter and spicy. To find the bond between different flavors, Yao would always draw a sunburst pattern to trace the correlations. Then, he would go back to his past experiences and follow his intuition and reflective thoughts – a novel dish is thus born. Chuckling, he says he is especially fond of the Hakka flavor and is particularly amazed by the subtle changes after fermentation. “A lot of things and seasoning used in Hakka cuisine are self-made, which I find to enjoy, especially stir-fried ginger and intestines.” His preference for the cuisine is demonstrated in the main dish on last season’s menu. Cleverly combining Chinese cuisine and fermentation elements, the pigeon pie was imbued with subtle details that brought a smile to people’s faces. Setting eyes on the future, Yao aspires to create more diverse forms of communication to further inspire different dining concepts. Through connecting various industries, he will then get to expand the depth and breadth of himself and his culinary skills. “This is about the desire for success, for things you want and for serving the perfect dish.” With eyes beaming with an unwavering shine, his hardworking and diligent personality comes into clear view, as we can’t help but wonder about the unlimited potential this new French cuisine talent has to offer.